Tobago Cays

Petit Nevis

Loving life in the Tobago Cays

Sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean

Ooh la la view from the top of one of the islands

Gorgeous sandy beach in the Cays

On our way back from snorkeling in the Cays

One of the hundreds of iguanas found on the islands around the Cays

Our first stop on the way to the Tobago Cays is Petit Nevis, a tiny uninhabited island just south of Bequia. This island was once the original whale rendering island for Bequia. There is still an active whaling station in a low-key and traditional way. Local whalers are allowed to take four whales a year between February and April. There are very few people left with the skills necessary to hunt them. They do this in an open sailing boat using hand-thrown harpoons. Petit Nevis had great snorkeling where we saw 2 kinds of eels along with all the gorgeous fish. We also found one tiny beach with ancient sea glass, nearly black with a rainbow colored sheen.

The next morning we motor sail in no wind to the Tobago Cays - the gems of the Grenadines. No wind is really the best while anchored in the Tobago Cays since there is just a reef separating the anchored boats from the Atlantic Ocean. This place is absolutely breathtaking! The colors of the water change all day long, there are several tiny islands you can walk around with huge iguanas and amazing views, and the snorkeling is incredible. To top it all off, seeing sunrises over the Atlantic that are over-the-top stunning!!!

The Tobago Cays is what we went sailing for - that's for sure. We spent our days snorkeling, visiting with friends, and exploring. While snorkeling we saw sting rays, eagle rays, a five foot lemon shark (yikes), huge parrot fish, flounder, sea turtles, jellyfish (ouch), trunk fish, hog fish, blue head wrasse, damsel fish, trumpet fish, and so many more gorgeous fish that we couldn't identify.

The Tobago Cays is by far our most favorite place to anchor and explore in all of the West Indies! I could keep posting picture after picture that is so breathtaking, but I better leave something for you to discover on your own!

Bequia

A young Brown Booby - Poser!!

Carol at the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary

Lower Bay - Our favorite sea glass beach in Bequia

Aldebaran anchored in Admiralty Bay, Bequia
This photo was taken from the Old Fort

Bequia is the northernmost island in the Grenadines. It is a small island that is just south of St. Vincent. With it's large bay and good yacht services, it attracts a lot of cruisers. When we got here we realized that it was varnishing time, so for two weeks we sand, varnish, sand, varnish, read, go to the beach, hunt for sea glass, visit the internet cafe (computer still dead), and take walks. The weather has been windy, windy but we manage to complete the first varnish phase before the rain comes (the phases never end, by the way!).

We hear that the weather is going to go through a period of being very calm and clear so we figure it is a good time to visit the Tobago Cays. Our friends on another Tayana are about to show up so we decide to sail together to the Cays. We stock up on food, drinks, ice and prepare to leave. While we wait for the good weather, we decide to take a walk to the other side of the island to visit the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary. This sanctuary was started by one man, who is now in his 70's. They watch for turtles to come to shore to lay their eggs and keep watch on them so no poachers come and take the eggs before they are hatched. When they begin to hatch they make sure the babies reach the sea. They keep a few small turtles to raise at the sanctuary since only 1 in 3,000 survive when they reach the sea!

The sanctuary has tanks with babies and tanks with various ages of turtles, and a few tanks with old turtles. They are all either green turtles or hawksbill turtles. There is even one that is around 10 years old that has some extra swimming privileges. Once in a while they put a leash on him and let him swim in the surf at the beach! The sanctuary is small but they do really great work. They have released nearly 800 turtles back to the sea, and they have a great education program to teach local children about sea turtles. They hope the information will be passed on to the fishermen of the family so that capturing turtles to eat and use their shells will decrease. When we leave the sanctuary we give an extra donation for the education fund. At the beach front in town where we leave our dinghy, there are craftspeople with tables full of turtle shell jewelry. It is against the law, but it is not enforced yet, something that those at the sanctuary are working to change.

The calm weather arrived......time to sail to the Tobago Cays!

Computer Died

Yes, that is correct, our computer is dead. Someone left it on the navigation table at night and a big rain storm came, one that we actually didn't hear. We got up, closed the portholes, but one sleepy head did not tightly secure the one that sent a drip to the computer. We will never forget the smell of a fried computer. The blog will come in time, but it has to be done in an internet cafe. Why they call it a cafe I will never know since no food is served here!! In the meantime, we are in Bequia. Bequia is a small island that is part of St. Vincent and is located about 8 miles south of the main island of St. Vincent. We are in the varnishing stage of cruising and every year we are dismayed by the amount of wood we have on the boat. The wind is blowing hard - not good for varnishing - but it sure is looking good! Next week we are planning on renting a kit car and driving around the island. Our next stop is the main island of St. Vincent where we will be having a new bimini and sail cover made. Please stay tuned!

Union Island, The Grenadines

Anchorage at Union Island. We are the farthest black boat

anchored in front of the tiny Happy Island

Downtown Clifton

Fruit and vegetable market in Clifton

Carol on a beach on the north side of the island. The papaya was given to us by a local named Billy Ray who we met on our way to the beach

Nearby Palm Island at sunset

We were excited to get to Clifton at Union Island because we did not visit this part of the island last year on our way south. We left Carriacou and sailed over on a Saturday afternoon and arrived with a bunch of other boats hurrying to anchor. We took the last spot at the end of the reef after several boat boys wanted to know if we needed anything; help anchoring, a mooring ball, ice, water, fish........

Once we were anchored and settled in we took a good look around and saw that we were right in front of Janti's Happy Island. Janti is a local man who worked trying to clean up the island of conch shells discarded by fisherman. His solution was to use them to build an island. We visited Janti on his Happy Island and he showed us pictures of the building process. He used conch shells, sand, and soil, and layered them "just like in the earth". He now has his house there and a bar, where people can visit in their dinghies to enjoy a drink and some great Reggae music played on his stereo system that you can hear around the anchorage. We, of course, just hadto have "several" of his specialty rum punches! Yummmmmm.........

We really enjoyed Union Island. We liked being able to walk all around the island to the different beaches, up to Old Fort, and to the only other little town of Ashton. While we walked we met local people who always said hello, and came across goats and sheep tied up here and their with their newborn babies - it's Spring!! Jon untangled several of the mamma goats so they could get better access to their babies and edible grass - too cute. One day as we headed up the hill to Old Fort we met one local named Billy Ray. Billy Ray had a house that he kept impeccably tidy and added natural artistic features all around the outside. He was very proud of his house. He wanted us to come into his yard to see his newest project which was a huge paintbrush and paint can that he made and was hanging outside his front gate. Very clever! Jon commented on all his papaya trees and the next hing you know we are leaving with one he picked off his tree for us. We became great friends and he would call out to us to say hello every time we saw him after that.

One of the other great things about our visit to Union Island was where we were anchored. The water was clean and clear and so inviting! We would swim off the boat in the hot afternoons and hang out watching fish swim by and laughing gulls fly around catching them. The laughing gulls crack us up. Their call is "ha ha ha" and sound just like they are laughing, so you just can't help yourself but laugh along. Around the full moon they showed up in huge numbers and were hanging around on the reef near us and laughed all day and all night. It was one big party!

Anchoring at the reef was great because the reef buffered us from the ocean waves, but we had the full force of the ocean winds. We had a full charge on our batteries the whole time we were there because of the non-stop wind turning our wind generator and sun shining down on our solar panels. It was so great to never run the engine to charge the batteries!

We stayed almost two weeks at Union Island and we could have stayed longer, but it was time to meander north to some other islands in the Grenadines while we had good wind direction. Mayreau is our next stop.......

Carriacou

Our first night in Carriacou

Paradise Beach

Nickernuts found on Paradise Beach

The weather report FINALLY shows a NNE wind and seas under 20+ knots and we decide it is time to sail north to Carriacou! We filled our fruit and vegetable hammocks, topped up with water, and headed north up the island. Early morning in the lee of the island of Grenada things looked new and fresh, the fisherman were already out in their boats, and a stream of sailboats were going north with us.

We realized that we would be sailing very close to the wind so we took a tack into Sauteurs on the very north of the island to help put us at a better point of sail. In the open water the winds were still 20+ knots but we were reefed and ready to go! Then we saw the biggest squall that stretched as far as we could see and we knew that it would not miss us...oh well. We got drenched (well, Carol did anyway) as the wind and rain slammed into us. We just hung on as Aldebaran stayed on course, put her port rail into the water, and flew along. As most squalls do, it passed in about 15 minutes. We patted Aldebaran and praise her for taking such good care of us :-) Then the sky cleared up, the winds calmed to 18 knots and the dolphins came out to play!! All around us the dolphins swam, crossing back and forth in the wake near the bow of our boat. We always get excited when we see those beautiful creatures as they come up to say hello!

We reached Carriacou in the afternoon along with all the other boats that left when we did. We all packed into Tyrell bay. Boats were everywhere, anchored as far out in the bay as they could go and still be protected! We relaxed for a few days in the bay, took some walks in the tiny village, bought some grapefruit from the lady at the fruit stand on the road, walked the beach. We knew we needed to make a decision soon about what we wanted to do next. Carnival would be coming that weekend - crazy time - our visas were running out - renew them or leave...such BIG decisions!! We decided to check out and move on. To check out of Carriacou we had to take a bus to the main town of Hillsborough. Not a big deal here....we love to ride these buses. They just drive along slowly (unlike Grenada) through the countryside, honking at everyone they know along the way. They dropped us in Hillsborough and we began the long process of checking out. Everyone is at lunch - wait.......Go to Immigration first - wait in a packed office until it is your turn, and then go across the street to Customs - wait (good thing Jon is the Captain).....in the meantime I take off to the beach to hunt for sea glass :-)

After we checked out we got a sandwich at a tiny deli and took a bus back. We asked to be dropped off at Paradise Beach so we could rest in the shade, eat our sandwich, and stroll along the beach - tough day. We didn't find any sea glass on the beach, but we did discover some seeds in spiny pods hanging on bushes on the beach. We recognized the seeds because people use them in jewelry, so we started collecting as many as we could. Last year we bought a book in Martinique about grains and seeds found in the Antilles. The book is written in French , but the pictures are great for identifying seeds. I looked up the seeds we found on Paradise Beach and discovered that the common name is Nickernut, and at one time children played a game similar to Mancala with these seeds. They are a beautiful green or gray color as you can see in the picture above. We are excited about finding more of these seeds on the other islands we visit.

Note** Sorry about the formatting - this program has a mind of it's own and will not break correctly for paragraphs!

Mt. Airy Young Readers Program and Workboat Races

Children and Cruisers at the Mt. Airy Young Readers Program

Spelling Bee....Reshawna, on the right, is one girl from Carol's group

Workboats and families on Grande Anse beach

Launching a workboat before a race

Two workboats take off after their race started

Saturday was a big day for us. The day started with us participating in the Mt. Airy Young Reader's program. The program was started by a Grenadian man, who was a teacher, and his wife. They began by inviting youth to their home on Saturdays to help with their reading. The word spread and more and more children began arriving by public buses from all over the island. They eventually moved to the community center to accommodate all of the children, ages 4 - 16. Today, the man who started the program is in his 80's but his wife still runs the program. Cruisers who found out about the program started volunteering to help out, so each week a bus load goes up to Mt. Airy in the gorgeous Grenada mountains and reads with groups of children. There are very few books and everything they use appears to be from many years ago. There are no books for older children. This is definitely a program, among many, that could use donations of books and materials to enhance the children's reading experience.

Yesterday's Young Reader's program had a different than normal format since it is the weekend of Grenada's Independence Day. Many of the children came dressed in the colors of Grenada - red, green, and gold - and the morning was filled with songs, prayers, spelling bees, a Grenada trivia game, outdoor games - soccer, frisbee and kite-flying; and then a one-pot meal of rice, beans, and chicken. After the final prayer, two young girls sang a song for all of us and we said our farewells before we left to head back to town.

On the way back, we got off the bus at Grande Anse beach so we could watch the workboat races, which is part of Grenada Sailing Week. Workboats are shallow draft, wood boats, with bamboo masts and sails that appear to be made from old sailboat sails. Before the race, they launch the boat by dragging it into the water and over the waves, then they attach the wooden rudder and hop in the boat when the starting gun fires. At the end of the race the captain jumps out when they reach the beach and runs up to the official table to check in and drink a shot of rum.

If you know anything about the Caribbean then you know that the beach is quite a festive happening during the races with music, games, dancing, swimming, and drinking! There are boats everywhere and families play in the water and on the beach while enjoying the festivities. Grande Anse beach is definitely the most beautiful beach in Grenada with water that is aqua and blue and so inviting. If you have not been here - you must come and visit sometime!

Victoria Food Fest - Grenada

A short beer stop on the way to the food fest.

Jon ordering a cup of sour sop ice cream

Drummers from Victoria and other nearby villages

Young dancers from Victoria

"You've got to go to the food fest!" Shade Man, our favorite bus driver, kept telling us. "This is the only place where you can try ALL of the local Grenadian foods!" We figured we better give it a try, so we gathered up two busloads of cruisers and headed to Victoria on the northwest part of the island. The Victoria Food Fest is only held on the last Saturday of each month, and the people from Victoria prepare and sell all of the traditional foods of Grenada. People from all around the island make their way there each month. In addition to eating just about everything you can imagine, there is entertainment and people selling handmade items. With Grenada's Independence Day coming up next week, this Food Fest was PACKED with partiers!

The drive is a long one, winding all along the west coast, so about about half way there Shade Man stopped to let us all get a beer at a little store on the street in a small village. The store is built right in front of the owners house, so they all came out to watch us file out of the buses and sell us some beer. "It's 3 beers for $10 EC!" Shade Man yells to all of us. Everyone lines up to get something to drink. After drinking and visiting we continued on to Victoria.

We arrived right as everything was getting geared up for the big night. We wandered by all the food tents to see what was written on the chalkboard menus.......goat, turtle, MONKEY, chicken, manacou (possom), fish, crayfish waters, Man Waters, Curried Bull Pissle (yes, it is what you think), conch, breadfruit pie, yam pie, macaroni pie, smoked fish pizza, sour sop ice cream......and the options went on and on! We sampled food here and there, but we just couldn't bring ourselves to try monkey, curried bull pissle or manacou. We finished our evening with sour sop ice cream and then hung out in the street being entertained by local drummers and dancers.

With the long drive back ahead of us we decided not to stay for the last entertainment of the night, a Grenadian Comedian. Too bad, that would have been good! We arrived back to where our dingies were tied at 11:30 and it was midnight when we got back to our boats. Shade Man was right...the Victoria Food Fest is definitely a place to get ALL of the local foods!

Sea Glass Hunting

Jon finding sea glass in the water on our favorite sea glass beach

Some of the best glass can be found in the water before being washed up on shore

Carol just starting her search in the best sea glass spot on Grenada

Some incredible treasures we have found so far. The colors are just amazing!
On the bottom right you can see a marble that has been tumbled by the waves.

One of the highlights about being in Grenada is hunting for sea glass. Grenada has one of the best spots to find sea glass in all the islands we have visited so far. We drove around the entire island to find the best beaches for glass and have settled on the one spot we like the best. Each week we tie up our dinghy at a nearby dock and walk up to the main road in Woburn to catch a number 2 bus. All of the buses in Grenada are named and usually we get "Bird Pepper" stopping to pick us up. I can't wait to get a ride in "Bawl and Beg"! The buses are for 16 passengers, but they aren't considered full until they get 22! We get dropped off in St. Georges and then walk about 2 miles to our favorite beach to look for glass. After we have tired ourselves out finding all that we can possibly carry, we get a coke at a little beach restaurant and have a fresh water rinse in their outside shower - ahhh.......

Once rested we walk back up to the main road to walk back to where we get the number 2 bus again. As we walk along the road, we stop to talk to some local people here and there. They are so friendly and love to share their knowledge with us. We see the local tailor in his shop in a ship container and wave hello, and meet a woman coming out of her house explaining to us about the breadfruit growing on her trees. Then just before we head downhill we always stop to see what boats are anchored outside of St. Georges and what cruise ships are in. It is always such a great day!

The best time to find glass is after large swells have been pounding the beaches. We never know what condition the beach will be in or how much, if any, glass we will find. One time we went to our spot and the surf was so calm, but we found hardly any glass. The next time the waves were so high they were crashing over our heads and drenching us as we scrambled around the big rocks to grab the glass before it got washed back out to sea. It was crazy, but we couldn't quit because every time a wave crashed over us it was raining sea glass! I noticed some people watching us like we were a couple of nuts out there, but we didn't care. We filled one gallon zip lock bag....it was a good day even though we were exhausted afterward. On another sea glass hunting trip we found a big stash in one rocky area. It was an area about 4x6 feet between the rocks. There was glass everywhere!! It was like striking gold. But, our best day yet was when we arrived at the beach on a calm day and saw some butts up in the air as people were collecting shells and glass. We knew it was going to be good. I started picking up pieces right away as Jon walked farther down the beach. Soon he came back with his hands full and told me that glass was littered everywhere on the beach. Oh my gosh! It was everywhere and the most beautiful pieces I have seen yet. We stayed bent over for several hours filling two bursting gallon zip locks and started on another when we just couldn't keep going. Each full bag weighs at least 10 pounds so we knew our carrying limits were already met. We got our coke and fresh water rinse and headed back on our walk to catch the bus "home". It's official....we are sea glass junkies.

Dinghy Concert in Grenada with Madison Violet

Join us for a fun time on the Water!

The tugboat Calico moored in Clark's Court Bay near where we are anchored. They invited all of the cruisers with their dinghies to come and tie up for a concert. Madison Violet is from Canada, and they put on a fantastic show! What an awesome time we all had. You can see our yellow dinghy on the far left and Jon (with his hat on) groovin' to the music.

Holidays in Grenada

Local house decorated for Christmas

Whisper Cove Marina Christmas Eve



Happy Hour before Christmas Eve dinner at Whisper Cove Marina

Delicious Christmas Eve buffet......Yum!

We were so excited to be in the water before Christmas! We decided to do something special so we made reservations for Christmas Eve dinner at Whisper Cove Marina. The couple who runs the marina are from Montreal and they cooked an incredible variety of food for their buffet. We had ham, turkey, pork ribs, meat pie, scalloped potatoes, several salads, and fresh bread. For dessert they served sugar pie and apple pie. It was all so delicious! They also had a local guitarist playing Christmas music during our meal. We met some new friends and really had a wonderful time!

Christmas day was all about relaxation and fun. We opened presents first thing in the morning, and then we baked sugar cookies. Since we only have one cookie cutter they were all in the shape of a Christmas tree, but that didn't matter, they were yummy anyway! We gobbled them up in no time! We also watched the movie "Elf" and just hung out on the boat. Great day.

I am sure you noticed that there are no pictures of New Years Eve. Well, that's because we didn't do anything on New Years! We tried to stay up, really we did, but bed time is so much earlier on the boat. I woke up at midnight and listened to the fireworks, but we couldn't see them since they were around the other side of the island. Oh well. HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone! 2011 is going to be an incredibly good year.

Back to Aldebaran II in Grenada!

Getting her hull polished in the boat yard.....Beautiful!

Anchored in a beautiful bay in Clark's Court Bay area on the south coast of Grenada

We arrived in Grenada late on the night of December 8. Philip from the Yellowhouse apartment picked us up at the airport after waiting while we made our way through customs. By the time we got to the apartment is was midnight. We were happy to be in a comfortable bed listening to tree frogs and crickets after starting our travelling day at 3:00 AM!

Bright and early the next morning Philip delivered us to Grenada Marine Boat Yard to begin work on Aldebaran II in preparation for putting her back in the water. We opened her up to find mold everywhere and it took us two full days to wipe her all down. What we hoped would take us three days to get her back in the water, actually took 12, since we decided to do some varnish stripping, hull polishing and other work that is better to do on land with power. Each day we started at about 8:00 AM and ended our day of work at about 5:00 PM. Then we came home to our little apartment to a shower and comfortable bed. We were just so thankful that the weather was much, much cooler than when we left in July!

Finally, splash day came for us on December 21....the winter solstice and full moon! We had to get in the water before the employees took two weeks off for the holidays and we made it! They put us in the water, we climbed on the boat, and started the engine. She started right up! Yipee! We motored over to a mooring ball for the night and worked hard to get things put away so we had a place to sleep. The next morning we moved over to a little bay in the larger Clark's Court Bay on the south part of the island.

We took our time to get things put away and comfortable again and meet up with people we met before we left Grenada in July. Relaxation was in order for the holidays.